The historical Cagaloglu Hammam

The Cagaloglu hammam (Cağaloğlu Hamamı) is one of the oldest and most famous hammams in Istanbul. This hammam is more than 300 years old and is considered as one of the oldest hammams in Istanbul with its almost completely preserved traditional hammam architecture. It has seperate parts for men and women. The Cağaloğlu hamamı also has a cute restaurant cafe in the garden. A very cozy atmosphere and you can sit, eat and drink there even if you didn't enter the bath. Also I must say that they have very hospitable people working there.

History of the Cağaloğlu Hammam

The Cağaloğlu hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire. When we take a look at the names of the head architects of that time we can say that it was begun by Süleyman Ağa finished by Abdullah Ağa. It is the last example of its kind to be built in İstanbul and is a successful hamam that is still operational in our time. The door of the women’s section is on a side street called Hamam while the mens' entrance is from the main road (Yerebatan Caddesi) with two marble columns with classic stalactite capitals on both sides.

King Edward John VIII, Kaiser Wilhelm, Franz Liszt and Florance Nightingale have all been here for a royal experience. Besides today's well known personalities King Fahd, Rockefeller, Tony Curtis, Richard Harrison came to Cagaloglu Hamami during their visit to Istanbul. In this excellent three hundred year old Turkish bathing temple one hundred and thirtyeight TV films have been shot. Six of them were productions for German TV. Seven of them were Thematic Films (Indiana Jones) and one of them a commercial for visa card. The world press has written about the wonderful arthitecture many time. Four times in the New York Times and Three Times in the pages of Geo. The press has much praised this bathing maabit.
There is Mikveh for Jewish ladies.

You can get extra information and see photographs of the interior of the Cağaloğlu hammam from its official website.




Visiting the Cağaloğlu Hammam today

The Cağaloğlu hammam is open everyday including sunday. There are seperate parts for men and women: its open for men everyday from 08.00 am to 10.00 pm and for women from 08.00 am to 08.00 pm.

Prices can vary, because there are different packages you can choose from but they are very affordable, especially when you compare it with the delightful and freshening experience you live in a traditional hammam.

The Cağaloğlu Hammam (8) is a short walk away from the famous Sultanahmet Square on Yerebatan Caddesi on the cross pavement of the Iranian Consulate. As you can see on the map above it is also very near to the Grand Bazaar - Kapalı Çarşı (1) and Topkapı Sarayı (6).

Address: Kazim Ismail Gurkan Caddesi, number 34, Cağaloğlu, İstanbul.

Phone number: +90 (212) 522 24 24

mail address: info@cagalogluhamami.com.tr


For more information and personal experiences of foreigners of the Cağaloğlu hammam and Turkish hammams in general, I found these great sites, I'm sure they will give you a much more thorough idea:

* CyberBohemia.com: Visiting the Modern Hammam in Istanbul and Ankara
* TripAdvisor.com: My Favorite Place in Istanbul- Cagaloglu Hammam
* It's All So Turkish!: Famous Hammams To Visit in Turkey

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The history of lokum (Turkish Delight)

The story of the creation of Turkish Delight (lokum) begins in the late 1700s (1777), when Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, confectioner to the imperial Ottoman court in Istanbul, listens to the sultan rant:

"Hard candy! I'm tired of hard candy!" the sultan growled as he cracked a tooth on yet another sourball. "I demand soft candy!"

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir had come to the imperial capital of Istanbul from the Anatolian mountain town of Kastamonu in the late 1700s to hear his emperor's plea. His mountain-man blood rose! His face turned grim with conviction! He set his jaw with determination! He was going to take bold and decisive action!

He marched into his confectioner's kitchen and thought up a recipe: he mixed water, sugar, corn starch, cream of tartar and rosewater, cooked it up, poured the mixture into a flat pan slicked with almond oil, and let it cool. Then he sprinkled it with powdered sugar, cut it into bite-sized chunks and...his hand trembling, his eyes bright with anticipation, his mind fraught with trepidation, his lips quivering to receive the morsel...he bit!

What? No crack of candy crunched by his mighty alpine jaws? No shower of sugary splinters scattering through his oral cavity? Why, this new confection was soft and easy to chew, a pleasure, a treat for both palate and teeth! It was... it was...a comfortable morsel!

Rahat lokum ("comfortable morsel"), nowadays called simply lokum, or Turkish Delight, was an instant hit, especially at the palace. Ali Muhiddin became a celebrity overnight as palace bigwhigs (or, more usually, their lackeys and gofers) traipsed down the hill from Topkapi Palace to Eminönü on the Golden Horn to buy boxes of Comfortable Morsels to thrill the jaded palates of Ottoman potentates.

You can still buy lokum at Ali Muhiddin's shop in Eminönü today, almost 250 years since the intrepid confectioner saved his sultan from sourballs. It's on Hamidiye Caddesi at the corner of Seyhülislam Hayri Efendi Caddesi, two blocks east of the Yeni Cami (New Mosque).

Over the centuries Ali Muhiddin's descendants (the shop is still owned by the family) fiddled with the recipe, adding good things like walnuts, pistachios, oranges, almonds, clotted cream, and of course chocolate. (The plain rosewater original is still a favorite, however.)

Lokum (Turkish Delight) is now made and sold in thousands of shops throughout Turkey, and enjoyed with Turkish tea or coffee, or just by itself. A favorite place to buy it is Afyon, where the rich local clotted cream is used to make kaymakli lokum.

You can make your own Turkish Delight at home. Here's a recipe.

When you visit a shop, don't be afraid to ask for a free sample: say Deneyelim! (deh-neh-yeh-LEEM, "Let's try some!")

* Source of article: Turkey Travel Planner

* Painting of the Court Confectioner Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir in his Bahçekapı shop done by the Maltese artist Preziosi, the original picture can be seen at the French Louvre Museum.


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Where does the name "Turkish Delight" come from?

When Hacı Bekir manufactured lokum, it was called "Rahatu'l-Hulkum" which meant "comfort of the throat" in Arabic. The name "lokum" comes from there. You really feel a delicious comfort after you eat the lokum. The "rahatu'l-hulkum" name becomes Rahat Lokum in time. And after a while the "rahat" is forgotten, "lokum" is left to be used even centuries later.

In the beginning of the 18 th century, Bahçekapı was not only the center of Istanbul but also the center of the whole Ottoman Empire. After arriving to İstanbul in 1777, Hacı Bekir had also opened his first lokum shop in Bahçekapı. Kapalıçarşı (Grand Bazaar) is there, Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar) is there, Babıali (the bureacratic center of the empire) is also there, the Sirkeci Train Gar. When the tourists come, they go to Bahçekapı straight.
Misbah Haydar, the daughter of the military commander of Mekke wrote in her book titled "Arabesque" these words: "Everyone who claims to know Middleeast, must know lokum manufacturer Hacı Bekir. "
Again in those days an Englishman comes to the Hacı Bekir lokum shop in Bahçekapı, tastes it, finds it delicious and takes some back to his country with him. Of course, because the English can't pronounce "Rahatu'l-Hukum" he says "Turkish Delight" to those who want to learn what it is. And later on its name stays to be "Turkish Delight". The French call it "lokum", but the English speaking world continues to call it "Turkish Delight" until this day.

A real turkish delight recipe (lokum)

This is one great Turkish Delight recipe! There are many recipes for Turkish Delight on the web. But when you read deeper you generally see that it is not the famous traditional Turkish Delight (lokum), instead they are either Greek or Arabic recipes. You can be sure that this one is the real Lokum recipe. Because I found it among Ruki's traditional Turkish sweets recipes. He has many great recipes on his site. You can add rosewater or food colorings as you wish. Plus you'll be able to add nuts, pistachio (fıstık), walnuts to this recipe too. But first you have to roast them. Now here are the ingredients for this delightful real Turkish Lokum:

* 4 cups (800 gr) of granule sugar
* 4 1/1 cup (1.125 lt) of cold water
* 1 desert spoon full of lemon juice
* 1 cup of (250 ml) cornstarch
* 1 desert spoon of white cream tartar
* 1-2 spoon full of rosewater (if you wish)
* also if you wish you may add a few drops of red food coloring to make it pink.
* 1/2 cup (125 ml) hazelnut, almond, walnut first roasted in a pan or owen and cooled off.
* 3/4 cup (190 ml) powdered sugar - sift it.
* 1/4 cup of additional corn starch
* a bristle brush
* a sugar thermometre
* a little pot with cold water
* and a tin tea filter


You should use a heavy saucepan with a thick bottom for cooking syrup. Plus a cup of water and a tin tea filter should be near you. While the syrup is boiling you'll use the tea filter to collect the bubbles formed on the syrup and then you should dip it into the cold water pot or hold it under the tap to clean it before dipping it back in the syrup.

Preparing the syrup of Turkish Delight

(800 gr) Sugar + 3 1/4 cup of water (875 ml) + lemon juice, blend them before you place it on the stove. Stir the sugar with a wooden spoon continuously while it is boiling and help it melt. Also while the syrup is boiling use the bristle brush to scrape the inner upper sides of the saucepan by drawing circles and pushing down the left around sugars- so that the sugar doesn't cristallize- do this often. After the sugar melts completely stop stirring and let it boil. Once the boiling syrups' heat reaches 240F/115C (you'll use the sugar thermometer at this point) take the boiling sugar off the stove at once.


In another deep and thick bottomed saucepan, blend the cornstarch, cream tartar and the rest of the cold water (1 cup - 250 ml) with a whisk until it becomes smooth enough. It should form a white liquid that isn't so thick by the time it's blended. Put it over the stove. Stir with a wooden spoon.
Beware, for it can thicken easily and unwanted pores can form. It may even be easier to stir with a whisk.

Now take the hot sugar syrup and add it to this cornstarch mixture over the stove, meanwhile keep stirring with the whisk. When it comes to boiling point, let it boil for 10-12 minutes over a half lit stove.

Wait in front of it while keeping on stirring with a wooden spoon. Stirring is very important in the whole process of preparing Turkish Delight. It will become a golden colored, thick and sticky mixture.
If you add rose water and food coloring it will become pink.

Also if you wish, now is the time to add nuts, pistachio, almond or walnuts. They should be roasted in a 350 F/180 C oven and cooled. You can put them as a whole or minced.

Pour the thick mixture into a 25 cm x 25 cm pyrex or pot (you should first butter the pot or pyrex by hand) Then wait for the mixture to cool and thicken.

Mix the powdered sugar and 1/4 cup of cornstarch in a flat plate. Cut the Turkish Delight in squares with a oiled knife (just carefully spread grapeseed or an oil of your preference on the blade). Then smear the powdered sugar mixture all over by hand. Lay them in a glass or tin box, in between the lines again sprinkle the sugar powder +cornstarch mixture amply.


* You must take some caution before working with sugar which means high temperatures. For example, a little pot with some cold water and a bristle brush should be under your hand so that while boiling the syrup, you can scrape the upper inner parts of the pot downwards to prevent the sugar from sticking on the side of the pot and crystallizing. Plus the pot should be good quality, thick bottomed, because you will be working with high temperatures.

* To use a sugar thermometer, attach it to the side and lower the thermometer so that the bottom is touching the bottom of the pot. Then raise it about an inch or two. Never let it touch the bottom of the pot, but don't get it so high that all you get is superficial heat. You want it to be inside the substance itself so that you can get a true reading of its temperature.

* Source of this Turkish Delight recipe: I translated it from Ruki's "Bayram Lokumu recipe". He has many other great recipes for all kinds of traditional Turkish sweets.

Hammam equipment: the hammam bundle (hamam bohçası)

Long ago, a visit to Hamam was an elaborate affair, requiring planning and the help of servants. Until recently it was natural for a woman visiting a Hamam to bring with her a bundle of up to 20 different articles, which she would use during her visit. These bundles (bohça) which are prepared seperately for different social occasions like a hammam visit, an engagement or marriage have big importance in Turkish life.

All things necessary for a hammam visit, would be carried in a bundle called "hamam bohçası". Let's see what sort of things she would have brought to the Hamam:

The "peştemal" (pesh-te-mahl), a large towel fringed at both ends and wrapped around the torso, from below the armpits to about mid-thigh , as the woman made her way to the "kurna" or marble basin. The pestemal would be striped or checked, a colored mixture of silk and cotton, or pure cotton, or even pure silk.

A pair of wooden clogs or patens, in Turkish "nalın", of which there were many varied types. Carved exquisitely, these patens kept the wearer's feet clear of the wet floor. They would be embellished in a number of ways, most often with mother-of-pearl, or even sheathed in tooled silver. They might have jingles, or a woven straw sheath, or be applied with felt or brass.

The "tas", or bowl for pouring water over the body, was always of metal. Weather silver, gilt or tinned copper, or of brass, the tas always had grooved and inlaid ornamentation.

One finds a soap case of metal, usually copper, with a handle on top like a handbag, and perforated at the bottom to allow water to run out. Not only soap goes into such a case, but also a coarse mitt for scouring down the skin, a webbing of date-palm or other fibers for lathering on the soap, and combs both fine and broad-toothed made of horn or ivory.

The "kese" (keh-seh), that rough cloth mitt carried in the soap case, not only scoured the dirt out of the pores, but served to deliver a bracing massage. The soaping web, on the other hand, was specially woven out of hair or plant fibers.

A small jewelry box is often included, and depending on the region will be of silver, copper or wood, sometimes covered with wicker, felt, velvet or silver. As she undresses in the hamam, the woman will remove her jewelry and place it in this box.

There are three towels for drying, one to go around the hair like a turban, one around the shoulders, and one around the waist.

The hamam carpet would be laid on the floor, then another cloth spread over it. Indeed, the name of the latter, "yaygi", contains the Turkish root for Quotspread". The woman would sit on the mat so formed to undress, and it was here that the bundle itself would be placed. After each trip to the hamam the spread would be washed and dried, then folded away in the bundle until the next time.

An inner bundle cloth was made of cambric, which can be repeatedly washed.

The outer bundle on the other hand, heavily embroidered, might be velvet, woolen or silken weave. In any case, it is always showy, suitable for the uses to which it is put on feast days and other special occasions.

The mirror was an indispensable item in the bundle, its frame and handle often of wood, but sometimes of silver or brass.

There might be a bowl for henna, which the woman would fill on arriving at the hamam. Aside from the color it lends, henna is considered to strengthen the hair. Henna is an old tradition for young girls before their marriage day; called as Henna night (kına gecesi).

A very small container, made of tinned copper, was used to mash up an eyebrow darkener known as "rastik", especially popular with those of fair and auburn hair.

There is another box, this one for "surme", for the lids.

Attar of rose in a bottle, the bottle in turn kept in a wooden case, and inevitably found in the hamam bundle: No other perfume was considered proper for the newly washed body.

* Source: All About Turkey
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Hammam's to visit in Turkey

Going to a Hamam is a great experience and a superb introduction into a traditional Turkish custom.. Do not forget to take a change of underwear, your own soap and shampoo, deodorant and body lotion. You can have massage or scrubbing with a kese (the glove) by lying down on the göbektaşı. Many Hamams provide you with peştemal, and nalın, which are very traditional. Relax and enjoy!

ISTANBUL

Cağaloğlu Hamamı

The Cağaloğlu Hammam, built in the 1700's, is one of the original and most famous hammam in Istanbul. It is considered the last sample of its category and the architectural design is astonishing. It has seperate parts for men and women. The bathing hours for men are 08:00 - 22:00 and for women 08:00 - 20:00 hours. Cağaloğlu Hamamı also has a café and garden as famous as itself. Discount is applied to groups of at least 10 people.
Prof. Kazım İsmail Gürkan Caddesi 34, Cağaloğlu (Across from the Iranian Consulate)
Tel: (212) 522 24 24


Çemberlitaş Hamamı
Built in 1584, by the famous Ottoman architect "Mimar Sinan", the Çemberlitaş Hammam is composed of two side by side twin hammam buildings, one of them used by women and the other by men. It is considered to be one of the most important examples of 16th century Ottoman architecture. It is open from 06.00 am to 24.00 pm everyday to men and women. Price: $9 for bath alone, $18 with massage. (I don't know for sure, but other big hammams in İstanbul should also have a price near this.)
It is located on Çemberlitaş Square, on Divanyolu Street.
Vezirhan Caddesi 8, Çemberlitaş.
Tel: (212) 520 18 50

Galatasaray Hamamı
First built in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II, it had some restorations under the reign of Ottoman Sultans and it was modernized in 1965 without spoiling original architecture and charm. It is one of the most popular Hamams among the businessmen and famous people. The hamam consist of göbektaşı, sweating and Turkish massage sections. Single changing and resting rooms are available, as well as another resting room in which you may sip your coffee, tea or refreshment after a relaxing bath. As in all Hamams there are separate sections for women and men. The bathing hours for women are 08:00-22:00 and for men 06:00-22:00. The men's section can be reserved for couples or groups of at least 20 people. Tourists are more receptive to the group idea. They can watch belly dancing and taste the delicious Turkish meals near the pool in the garden. Galatasaray Hamam is the address of "Gelin Hamamı", "Damat Hamamı" and "Kına Gecesi" (Henna Night) organizations.
Turnacıbaşı Sokak 24, Galatasaray
Tel: (212) 252 42 42

Süleymaniye Hamamı
Süleymaniye Hamamı is among the works of famous architect Sinan. It is recently restored. In Süleymaniye hammam, it is said that, men and women can bath together. Which is usually forbidden in all other Turkish hammams. It is worth to visit even to see the magnificence.

ANKARA

Karacabey Hamamı
Karacabey Hammam was built in 1444 in memory of Karacabey, the commander of Sultan Murat II. It was previously restored between 1988-1990 without spoiling its original architecture. There are sections for both women and men. Each dressing room has a pool in the middle ornamented with a fountain. Unfortunately, they do not provide soap, shampoo, or towels so be sure to bring your own. Open everyday: 06:30-23:00 (For Men) 07:30-20:00 (For Women).
Talatpaşa Bulvarı, 101 Hamamönü Ankara
Tel: (312) 310 21 55

Şengül Hamamı
It was built in the 18th century and restored in the 19th century. It has separate sections for men and women. There is a dome covering the top of the cold-water section. If you are in a group you may be entitled to a discount. Open everyday: 05:30-22:00 (for men) 06:30-19:30 (for women)
Denizciler Caddesi, Acıçeşme Sokak 3, Ulus Ankara
Tel: (312) 311 03 63

Hilton Hotel
This 5-star hotel operates a Hamam but it is available only to guests staying at the hotel. Open everyday between 10:30-18:00. Appointments are required for massages and scrubs.
Hilton Hotel, Kavaklıdere Ankara
Tel: (312) 468 28 88


BURSA

Bursa Kervansaray Termal Otel Hamamı
The hammam is inside the Kervansaray Hotel and the water is 44 degrees C and rich in calcium ion. There are separate sections for women and men and can be rented to companies upon request.

EDIRNE

Sokullu Hamamı
Sokull Hamamı in Edirne is the work of Mimar Sinan and was built in 16th century. It is the largest hamam with the dome, building area and the garden. It serves only for men however as an Edirne Tradition it is possible to arrange "gelin günleri" (Bride Days) and there is a private marble basin for the Bride.


TRABZON

Trabzon Sekiz Direkli Hamam
This hamam is assumed to be built by Seljuks in the 11th century. The name is derived from the eight columns inside. It is for men except Thursdays and can be rented to groups upon request.

SIVAS

Tarihi Meydan Hamamı
This Hamam was built in 1564 and serves only to men.

What is a hammam?

The hammam ( Turkish: hamam) is one of the oldest and best known specialties of Turkish life. The hammam or Turkish bath is the Middle Eastern variant of a steam bath, all though it is very different it is sometimes categorized as a wet relative of the sauna.
The tradition of the Turkish bath extends far back, to a time before Turks had reached Anatolia. When the Turks arrived in Anatolia, they brought with them one bathing tradition, and were confronted with another, that of Romans and Byzantines, with certain local variants. The traditions merged, and with the addition of the Moslem concern for cleanliness and its concomitant respect for the uses of water, there arose an entirely new concept, that of the Turkish Bath. In time it became an institution, with its system of ineradicable customs. For the Turkish bath was much more than just a place to cleanse the skin.

Like the Roman baths, the hammam became a place to socialize. "Your town is only a perfect town when there is a bath in it," said Abu Sir, an early Arab historian.

The hammams in the Ottoman culture started out as structural elements serving as annexes to mosques, however quickly evolved into institutions and eventually with the works of the Ottoman architect Sinan, into monumental structural complexes, the finest example being the Çemberlitaş Hammam in Istanbul, built in 1584.

Being social centers, in the Ottoman Empire, hammams were quite abundant, and were built in almost every Ottoman city. Integrated in daily life, one of the rare public meeting places for women in the Islamic context, a place for relaxation and a place for religious, artistic and ceremonial activities, they were centers of social gatherings, populated on almost every occasion with traditional entertainment (e.g. dancing and food, especially in the women's quarters) and ceremonies, such as before weddings, high-holidays, celebrating newborns, beauty trips etc.

The hammam became such an important part in the lives of Moslem women that if a husband were to deny his wife her visits to the hammam, she had grounds for divorce. Mothers found the opportunity to inspect prospective brides for their sons in the hammam, where no physical flaws or social foibles could escape notice.